Well, in anticipation of 440 Multi, it's time to fix the monitor in my Cheyenne cabinet. When I picked it up at Gerald's auction, you could barely make anything out -- no sync and all sorts of blurring and distortion. After a little tweaking of the controls, I got it sync'd up and playable, but it is still showing some folding and lines, as well as a nice distortion on the lower right side (which, according to one of Randy Fromm's articles, and my prior experience with the WG 4900 tracks back to a bad bypass filter cap).
I didn't have time today to do much and tommorrow's schedule is packed, so I probably won't get to actually working on the monitor until Thursday or Friday and, even then, won't have much time. So ... tonight, i am going to do the prep work (which, for some reason, I find fun).
First, let's start with a hopefully fully-stocked cabinet of electronic components:
Then, make sure that we have our magnifying glass to read the teeny tiny printing on the teeny tiny caps, not to mention reading the monitor boards and schematics.
Next, I grab a cap list from the Ionpool.net, the troubleshooting flowchart from Randy Fromm's Technical Department (not really required for a basic capkit, but I always like to have one on hand when working on a monitor), as well as a CapMap. I typically take the diagram of the parts side of the PCB from the manual (which I grab from ArcArc if I don't already have it). The CapMap comes in handy when you can't find things on the board -- I like to put the map beside my work area and lay the caps out on it. it is an easy way to keep track of things.
And, after what seems like a lot of effort, we end up with a box of capacitors ready to be installed. This is one of the pricier capkits out there due entirely to that big D-battery-looking 560u 200V cap, which weighs in at $12!
Now, all that remains is to pull the monitor, discharge it (not as scary as people think), then replace the caps ... and keep my fingers crossed that I don't make things worse.
Stay tuned ...
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